From Pisco to Art

From Pisco to Art

Our first stop in Chile is Coquimbo, a seaside port. They are still recovering from damage caused by a tidal wave emanating from an earthquake off the coast. The beach is smaller now, and the first floor of many buildings by the beach show the damage from a powerful flood of seawater. Coquimbo started as a place for ships to dock outside the small city of La Serena, but it has grown into a tourist destination itself, a magnet for vacationers and retirees with cabana areas and high-rise apartments overlooking magical ocean views. We had a chance to walk the extensive gray-sand beach and watch surfers in wetsuits navigate substantial waves. (The water is, pardon the pun, chilly in Chile, owing to the Humboldt current.) Our guide said Coquimbo is where the nightlife happens, while nearby La Serena, also a retiree haven, is more staid. We notice exercise machines set up along beach sidewalks, in hopes the citizenry will increase their exercise. Our guide doesn't think Chileans' burgeoning girth will reduce: "They love empanadas too much," she says.

We passed through La Serena on our way to the Elqui valley - a narrow but fertile strip of land in the heart of a plateau surrounded by barren cactus-studded hills. A large dam has been built there to support the region's agriculture, but the water is noticeably low, the effect of global warming and this year's "el nino effect." (Though this trip is taking place at the start of the rainy season, we've only had fair skies on land so far--great for us tourists, but not good for the agricultural of the countries we've visited so far.) Our destination is the Capel distillery, which brews Pisco, Chile's national drink (Peru's too, come to think of it), a distilled alcohol derived from a blend of grapes, usually diluted to 90 proof. Chileans, we were told, annually consume six bottles per capita of this potent beverage. Chips of American or French Oak are added to the alcohol to give it a color and aroma. The "best" Pisco is aged for 1-2 years. It is also sold pre-mixed as "Pisco sour" (28 proof). We discover that the distillery had WiFi at the visitor center, so we are able to download emails and read a few messages. Sumner especially appreciates messages from his sister and niece, with happy birthday wishes and some news from home. We have time to send only brief replies before the tour continues.

We have a large lunch--plate-sized heavy-crusted empanadas meagerly filled with ground beef, hard-boiled egg and onion, and 12-ounce slabs of steak with rice and vegetables. Of course, Pisco sours are on offer! For a change, one can order Coke or orange soda, but we are leery of the ice. Sumner has his own Pisco sour and Alice's as well. This leads to a restful nap on the bus as we return to La Serena. We visit the city's archaeological museum, where there is a large Moai brought from Easter Island (a possession of Chile, oddly enough, though it is very far away). There is some mystery to the island's large statues, and questions as to why they face inward on the island.

The next day we are in Valparaiso, nicknamed "Valpo" by the locals. We have a small tour group which will visit 3 artists' studios/homes and have drinks and appetizers at the end of the tour. The artists are delightful, our guide doing most of the translation. (Here we really miss the ability to post pictures with the descriptions.) The first artist is a painter of human figures and portraits. He is obviously influenced by Gaughin and Soutine. The second artist is a sculptor using found objects and recycling them into art. The third artist (Loro Coiron) works in graphics, using linoleum blocks rather than woodblocks. He captures the city life of Valparaiso. The city is alive with art, and most of the walls on the hillsides are covered with colorful graphics, some political, some not. In general, these are far superior to the usual graffiti. At the end of the trip, our group ascends a funicular to Conception Hill, one of the city's many hills overlooking the harbor. Our guide says it's the most desirable residential area. The colorful houses, many with facades of corrugated metal, show British and French colonial influences. We have a lovely extended appetizer time (Pisco sours again!) on the broad patio of a restaurant with beautiful views, and become better acquainted with those in our group. We are delighted with the variety of fellow travelers we're meeting--from Norway, Austria, England, Germany, Australia, Japan, Canada, Sweden, etc. Much of the chat is about travels taken or future travels, which is a common bond. (We've strayed a bit into the topic of politics, and are pleased to say Donald Trump is not well regarded by anyone we've met so far; in fact, those from other countries are expressing concern that Trump could be elected.) The diversity of nationalities, Sumner thinks, may explain why the Prinsendam cuisine is so savory and spicy, compared to what is served on ships serving primarily at Anglo passengers. Vive la difference!

In the course of all this, we learn that Alice and Sumner are tied for second place in the last duplicate game. And this is after Alice has had one lesson. She's a quick learner.

Tonight is the Black and White Ball on the ship. They call it a "Gala" evening, rather than "formal." Sumner will wear his Tux and Alice is ready to tango (well, cha cha, anyway) with a flounced black gown.