More Ice, Waves, and on to Port Stanley

The third day of cruising the Antarctic is fantastic. The absence of sea ice allows us to enter the Weddell Sea, where Shackleton's second expedition was caught in the ice. There's very little sea ice now because it's summer, but we see many large tabular icebergs floating around us, some of them hundreds of feet high. They have been loosened from the extensive Ice Shelf that covers the continent in the winter (our Summer), doubling the continent's size. By the end of the day, we turn toward Port Stanley in the Falkland Islands. Today we are in rough seas and gale-force winds in the South Atlantic), making our way North. We notice many fewer passengers around the ship. Many are staying in their rooms, perhaps uncomfortable with the ship's rolling, or maybe they're just reading and napping--favorite pastimes between the many activities available.

Although Antarctica holds 90 percent of the world's ice (70 percent of it's fresh water), it is the driest continent on earth. It has the highest average elevation of any continent. Because of these features, it makes an excellent site for a telescope. The 24-hour night during the winter, the height, and the lack of pollution make it almost the equal of the Hubble insofar as there are minimal atmospheric problems interfering with observation. NASA launches large balloons, which circle the continent in 40 days, following the prevailing wind currents. Research packages are then dropped for pickup, using small explosive charges. Antarctica is the engine for much of the southern hemisphere's weather and ocean currents. Research here holds the insights that we need to manage, and change, the rate of global warming.

Thanks to the Antarctic Treaty, the continent is managed cooperatively by those countries willing to undertake scientific activities for peaceful purposes. We have had daily briefings on the treaty, history, and ongoing research. it is clear from what we learn that the global warming issues are critical to resolve. The damage, according to our reports, may be reversible, but it will take 30 years or more to reverse course for the hole in the Ozone, and that will require concerted international efforts. As we undergo changes, warm-blooded animals (endothermic) adapt better and faster than cold-blooded ones (exothermic). If adverse change happens too fast, or we fail to correct ongoing warming, the endothermic creatures--such as the all-important krill in the South Atlantic Ocean, which is the dietary mainstay of the ocean ecosystem--will be harmed. We learned that increasing acidification of sea water can cause organism de calcification: their shells soften and dissolve. Our speakers are polite about addressing global warming, acknowledging that it is a controversial subject, but they lay out overwhelmingly convincing evidence that the Earth is in grave trouble.

The adaptation of animals to the environment here is impressive. Animals need to grow quickly to survive. A seal pup, for example, can gain 5 pounds a day by drinking his mother's super-fat milk.

Because of the weather, the show this evening has been changed. There is too much heaving to allow the dancers to perform their variety show. A pianist and a mime-comedian are being pressed into service. If things are not calmer by the morning, we may have to cancel our visit to Port Stanley.

We have now traveled 8,520 nautical miles on this trip, and we're just starting for home. What a wonderful adventure we are having!